Notes on Celtic Tote

Well lookie here, just squeaking in the last post of '07. The usual slew of reasons like tons of work, getting sick, family, holidays, non-bloggable projects, conspired against getting any other posts up this month. However, these are a few things I've been meaning to mention for my Celtic Tote pattern from Interweave Knits Winter 2007.

So I'll try to make this quick and list-like.

• First I want to mention again that there is some errata for the pattern. It's a small thing and in the beginning but I posted it here and on Ravelry.
• For the decreases at the sides of the bag you're decreasing every 9th row starting at Row 2 of the chart - which is the 9th row up from the bottom (CO row + 6 rows Rev St st + 1 row of chart). I found it easiest to simply mark or highlight the rows on the chart where the side decreases fall as I’m more of a visual reader. That way I could work solely from the chart without having to refer to the written directions. The edge decreases fall on Rows 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47, 56, 65 of the chart. (I know an odd number is a little more bothersome to work but I calculated the decrease angle to mirror the angle of the cables because I'm picky but you could alternate every 8th and 10th row if you'd prefer.)
• There is a great picture tutorial for the RS double increase used in the pattern located here - http://www.girlfromauntie.com/stitch/inc2/. As well as here. You may notice here it instructs you to knit into the back first, either way will work- find what works best for you.
• The "no stitch" chart symbol often causes confusion. What it means is literally ignore that box in the chart like it isn't even there and do nothing to your knitting. With these types of cables you're increasing and decreasing in pattern and sometimes the only way to account for that in the chart is with the "no stitch" boxes.
• For the section Bottom where it says Next row: (RS) *K1, sl 1 pwise wyf; rep from * to end, I would recommend repeating that row 4 or 6 times to make it easier to distribute the stitches for working in the round.
• On seaming, I used regular ol' Mattress Stitch (how you usually seam sweaters). Knitty has a great tutorial on it here - http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring04/mattress.html. You can work with the knit sides facing you and when you turn it right side out (purl side out) the seam stitches form a nice piping edge on the sides.
• Be careful to not overfelt! The cables will become more subtle the more you felt it and possibly disappear if it is overfelted. I only felt mine lightly, you should still be able to see distinct stitches.
• As for the embroidery, this is something I really wanted to discuss. You don't have to backstitch every stitch! It's not what I intended in the original instructions. I simply wove the yarn under the cable crossings, letting it conform to the outside curves the cables as one unbroken line. I only did one backstitch on the insides of curves to hold it in place. I illustrated the technique on another celtic cable bag I previously made, photographed below.




• The felting process will help hold the outlining strand firmer in place. I also secured it more with some needle felting. For that I found felting the strand to the side of the cable versus the back of the bag worked best. You could certainly use more back stitching (or embroidery stitch of your choice- I've heard stem stitch used) if you're concerned about its stability.

I picked up some beautiful Berroco Peruvia in a blue heather with silver Lamb's Pride for the outline at the lovely Knitting Nook to make my own now! The knit-along group there was so kind and tolerated my blathering on about the pattern. :)
There are already several beautiful completed bags and many in progress (76!) on Ravelry. If you're on, check them out!

Edited to add: Check out this AWESOME tips and tricks video on the Celtic Tote!! Done by Marvels of Knitting for a KAL by the truely lovely looking yarn store Unraveled in Monrovia, Ca!

Happy New Year everyone!