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While shopping at the halloween store we determined that some swords were a must have for this years costumes. For me, a cutlass to go with my pirate costume, and Mr. PieKnits a fencing foil for his Phantom of the Opera. Now a gentleman of the opera house needed a proper place for his sword. With some craft felt and 15 minutes time I created a holster, or 'Sword Frog' to slide onto his belt, ta-da!



This is loosely modeled off of some images from 19th century military issued sword belts and baldrics but could easily used for about any costume with a sword, or just for that toy sword the little ones are running around with! 

Materials needed:

• 1 piece of craft felt
• Coordinating thread
• Scissors
• Hot glue/fray check/regular glue (optional)

Click here or on the thumbnail image for a printable pattern template. Cut out pattern and trace onto felt. Cut out pattern in felt and the slit in top. This should be the width of the belt it's intended to be worn on (standard belt size shown).

Fold over far right edge and line up with angled bottom left edge, slightly overlapped. Stitch together. Sew reinforcing X stitches at top and bottom of belt slit. You can add a drop of glue on the back at each of these points as well for some additional strength.

Note: This is made for a right handed sword fighter, to be worn on the left. If you are left handed, flip the pattern over.



Next up, my nearly entirely DIY pirate costume!

Let me articulate how I feel about this particular piece.

OMGILovethishat!



When I saw this pattern I wanted to cast-on immediately (even despite having three other hats in progress). Thankfully this is the fastest knit I've ever done - less than 2 hours! I can definitely see cranking out a few more of these in other colors.



This is like cotton candy knitting, total fluff and mindless instant gratification. I followed the pattern line by line (nice, no measuring even needed) and it fits perfectly. Can you tell I'm smitten?

Pattern: Chunky Newsboy Cap by Diane Serviss of Earthly Fae
Yarn: Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick, Grass #131
Needles: US size 13 (9 mm) and US size 8 (5 mm); used magic loop for top
Mods: None other than to cast-on in knit/purl long-tail method, detailed below
 


I've talked about the Purl variation of the Long-Tail Cast-on before in this tutorial but I didn't show the difference it really makes. I particularly like to use this in combination with the regular cast-on for ribbing in bulkier yarns as it shows much more and thus used it here. The reason this matters is because the Long-Tail CO actually creates your first row of knitting, so in ribbing you have one row that doesn't match the ribbing.

In the first swatch I used the combo of knit and purl variations and you can see it's more seamless (especially when it is stretched out like when worn on a hat brim). The other nice thing about this is it is identical on both sides and therefore an ideal choice for things like scarves where both sides are visible. I've also used it when making a sweater for example where the body is worked in the round but the sleeves are worked back and forth. In this case different sides show on the RS and the cast-ons don't match. Again this is more noticeable in bulky yarns (it bothered me in my Lace Leaf Pullover).



You can really see the difference between the two sides in the last two photos of the same swatch. If you prefer a photo tutorial vs. the illustrations, this is a nice example on the technique.

or Do-It-Yourself Upholstery

I do love my staple gun. When shopping for yours go for the Heavy Duty, do not entertain any others.

And so as promised, more escapades in re-upholstery!

While this piece is actually new, I found it at a closeout furniture shop for such a steal that I couldn't pass it up despite the undesired upholstery fabric. I figured even with the cost of new fabric it would still be a deal, and well - it was perfect.

This kind of couch, or settee as I took to calling it, is really more an elongated chair. Which is good - chair upholstery is one of the easiest. If you're not sure about tackling that sofa Grandma donated to you yet I'd recommend trying out a "drop-in" seat style chair first, like the one I did here.

Here's what I did if you're interested in following along to try it yourself.

Conveniently with this piece the "Some Assembly Required" part could wait until after I was done, thus saving a step. Otherwise your first step would to be unscrew the seat and any other parts on the piece.

Starting with the seat cushion, flip it over and the bottom will most likely be covered with some backing material. Using a flat head screwdriver and some pliers I removed all the staples and the fabric. Save this fabric, you will want to put it back when finished.

Now I'm one for using what you have and being thrifty but sometimes the right tools make all the difference - especially if that difference is not cursing out every single one of several hundred staples. After the backing was off I stopped, went out and got myself a Staple/Tack Remover.

I would recommend doing this step first.

Now as I've said many a time, I do love my cables. However it wasn't until knitting on a particularly cramped plane once that I suddenly became self aware enough to realize I was sticking my cable needle (and extra double point for that matter) in my mouth when not in use. Oh.
So what to do with it?

I know many rave about cabling without a cable needle and I do it for 1x1 cables sometimes but generally it's just not for me. (I end up feeling I'm strangling rather than working the cables). I like working fast though and all other methods have fallen short (sticking behind the ear- long hair bad idea / in the knitting - it falls out, split stitches / setting it down- the invisible gnomes abscond with it, etc).

With Mother Necessity nudging me, I set my mind to inventing a solution. I wanted a method that didn't require letting go of the knitting and liked a similar idea to the wrist pin cushion. After a few failed prototypes this is what I came up with and Eureka, it works perfectly!

This cable needle holder is worn like a ring on any finger that's comfortable. The elastic loop performs double duty as a button loop closure and holds the cable needle securely under tension. The cable needle is slipped in and out as needed without having to let go of the working yarn or needles.

What You Need (or what I used anyway):

• 2 1/2" long piece of round cord elastic
• 4" x 7/8" piece of fabric (approximately)
• Matching sewing thread
• One 1/2" button (with a shank strongly preferred)

If you'd like, you can print out this template for the fabric. First fold and press your hems, your final size should be 3" x 5/8". This final size is what matters, not the hem allowance. (Also, does pressing my folds with my hair straightener instead of the huge industrial iron make me a total freak?)

I used the fabric selvedge here as it was a little sturdier for attaching the elastic.

View from the right side. Note: if you have thin fingers (smaller than size 6), or would like to wear this on your pinky I'd recommend making the piece shorter.

Next fold the piece of elastic in half and secure it to the inside hem fabric making sure not to go through both layers. It's pictured here half unfolded on the right side. I found lashing down both ends by wrapping the thread around everything a few times help to initially secure it. Then work up and over each end in a figure 8 fashion being sure to pierce through the elastic a few times until it's nice and secure.

If you have greater finesse with a sewing machine than I, topstitch around all the edges to secure hem. Otherwise hand sew with backstitch.

Finally, sew on your button. If not using the recommended shank type button be sure you make a good strong thread shank. (You will be putting a lot a repeated tension on this closure.)

Now you're ready to zoom through your next cabling project!
I'm really rather fond of mine and happily wear it simply as jewelry. Definitely more stylish if forgotten than a needle behind the ear (or in the other stow-away place I've heard of- the cleavage)!

After "uninventing" this technique of double knitting the button band for my Circumnavigated Cardi I had a few requests for a tutorial. I do like to spread the double knitting love, so here we go.

First, let us have a little crash course in double knitting. There are several different methods and variations on those methods for achieving this type of effect. From knitting a tube on two needles with a single strand of yarn, to knitting two layers with two strands, knitting a circle within a circle to two layer colorwork to... phew, well you get the idea. Each of these methods also has its various strengths.

For this application, we will be knitting two layers simultaneously with two strands of yarn; for when working such long rows this is the swiftest variation. If you have ever done stranded colorwork before this method will be familiar. You can hold each strand however you like, both in the left, both in the right or one in each (my preferred method). I also dislike purling continentally so I switch the yarns each row so I'm always working the knit side with my left had. Unlike stranded work where this is verboten due to color dominance, it isn't an issue here. Do whatever works for you!

So how do you get two layers of knitting on the needles at same time? Simple, you intersperse the stitches of one side, every other one with the stitches of the other side like this.

This setup is the constant in all forms of double knitting. I like to think of the stitches on the needle as pairs, one for the front and one corresponding loop for the back. These merry little pairs like to always travel between needles together, kind of like kindergarten street crossing buddies.

Why double knit a button band? Lots of reasons! It gives the more tailored look of a folded hem with Stockinette stitch on both sides yet without having to sew down a folded edge. Working both layers at the same time allows the button hole to be worked through both sides and joined producing a sturdy piece. You can pick up, knit, bind off and be done just like a traditional Garter stitch band.

Double knitting is one of those things where if you've never done it before, just trust the directions and it will work- rather like turning a sock heel the first time. Still with me? Great, onto the instructions for making this work as a button-band.

To start, pick up sts along the edge as you normally would for any type of button band. This is usually 3 sts for every 4 rows, shown here in a contrasting color for visual simplicity.

Purl one row. This is the set up row and from this we will double the number of sts to create the two sides of fabric. You will also notice the pick up row gets "tucked in" naturally so that unstretched, you won't really see it. This helps to disguise the increase row even further.

Now we will work our increase on every stitch across the row. It is pictured here after working halfway across the row, again for clarity. The best method for increasing like this is the Purl into stitch below increase.
To do this- with the yarn in front, insert the tip of your needle purlwise into the top of the stitch below the current one on the left needle. You can lift this stitch onto the left needle to purl it, or purl from where it is.

After you have purled into that stitch, move the yarn to the back and slip the next stitch purlwise (the one that was above the stitch you just worked into). You now have a happy little pair, one stitch for the front and one for the back.

Work each stitch across the row this way until all stitches are doubled.

Turn your work and switch to a needle one or two sizes smaller and you are ready to start double knitting. *Note: In double knitting you will almost always need to go down a needle size or two because the stitches from the second layer squish in-between the other stitches and spread them out creating a looser gauge than a single knit fabric.

With a second ball of yarn (Yarn A) and *with both strands in front, purl 1 in Yarn A, with both strands in back, knit 1 with Yarn B, repeat from * across row. Your first row of double knit is complete. Turn your work and be sure to twist the two strands at the beginning of reach row to close the sides (the top and bottom of the button band). Repeat between * * until you have worked the desired number of plain rows before the buttonhole row.

Buttonhole row: Continuing in double knit, work the desired number of sts until you reach the placement of your first buttonhole. Bring both yarns to front of work, slip 2 sts (1 pair of front and back layer) then move both yarns to back and drop them there.

Slip 2 sts (1 pair) from the left to right needle then pass the first slipped pair of sts over these. Repeat two more times for a total of 6 sts (3 pairs) bound off or for however many you need for your size buttonhole. Then slip the last pair of sts on the right needle back to the left needle and turn work.

Pick up both strands and holding them together cast on 4 sts (or however many pairs you bound off + 1) using Cable Cast-on or Knitting-on Cast-on. The Cable Cast-on produces a neater edge I think, but I found the Knitted-on Cast-on a little easier to work (and is what is pictured here). Instructions for either of these cast-ons can be found here. Remember to work cast-on with both yarns held together (double-stranded). Turn your work and if the WS of the piece is facing you (such as in this example) move the both strands to the front and if the RS is facing you move to back.

Slip 2 sts (1 pair) from the left needle to right needle and pass the last cast-on pair over. Continue in double knitting repeating buttonholes where needed to end of row. On the return row work each loop of the double stranded cast-on sts as one stitch, your little pairs are back. Continue working in double knit until ready to bind off. Note: Remember to twist the yarns at each end (unlike in this swatch *cough*). This will also help neaten up the edges.

To bind-off, a very simple bind-off you can use is similar to the three needle bind-off. Using your original larger needle, simply k2tog (each pair), *k2tog, pass first stitch on right needle over the 2nd and continue from * until all sts are bound off. That's it!
Another alternative for a seamless edge is to graft both layers together. You can even do this with all the sts still on the same needle (this is how I bound off the ends of my cuffs on the Circumnav Cardi) or separate the two layers onto two needles to work traditionally.

The "guts view" to prove it really is two separate layers in there. You can see that both layers will be joined at the buttonhole making them extra sturdy, huzzah!

Can't get any easier than this, the 15-minute circular needle holder.

Nothing against sewing, I do have plans to make a placemat dpn holder ala the Grumperina method but I like this one for something a little different. Circular needles are inserted through the center holes in craft supply wooden spools and dangle by their cords.

Stuff you need
Wooden spools (mine were Large Barrel, 3/16" x 7/8"; 1/4" hole, 20 pcs from a craft store)
Approx 1 1/2 - 2 yards floral wire (I believe mine was 28 gauge)
Permanent markers (I used a silver paint pen and a sharpie)
Scraps of yarn or fabric
Glue (hot glue gun was weapon of choice for me)

Note on the spools - mine have 1/4" hole which fits up to a US size 10 needle. This was adequate for me, but if you require ones for larger sizes you can drill or use a needle file to enlarge the opening, or look for a larger diameter spool.

What to do with it

First, label all your spools with the appropriate needle size. For my end spools I wound a piece of scrap yarn around the spool and secured it with a dot of glue. A piece of fabric cut to size would also look nice. You could obviously embellish these however you like. I went with simplicity (also known as "easy"). Next cut a length of wire about 1 1/2 - 2 yards long, I just kinda eyeballed it. Thread wire though first spool and hold in half so both lengths of wire are equal. Following the diagram below, weave the wire in and out of each spool.

Then, once the last spool is wired on, twist the remaining two wire lengths around each other and fold into a hook shape. Trim ends and load up with all those unruly needles.

I love this counterpart to the regular long tail cast-on. It's so simple to work them in combination and cast on anything in ribbing! The long tail cast on actually casts on and makes the first row of knit stitches (which is why you purl the first row when starting in St st.) To start with a seamless 2 x 2 rib, for example, you would cast on 2 sts in the usual method, then 2 in this purl variation, then 2 in regular knit, etc. I used this technique in my Zombies Need Not Apply pulse warmers in the April '06 issue of Magknits. It works particularly well there where the cast on and bind off rows are so close to each other, thus more noticeable if different.
This technique is also perfect for casting on for double knit fabrics. Alternating between knit and purl sets up the stitches so every other one is facing in the opposite direction.
I had more success in illustrating this with a simplified drawing than photographs. With so much going on visually I decided to indicate the movement of the needle with a green arrow.


To make a purl cast on stitch start by holding the yarn in the usual manner. Pick up the strand of yarn on the index finger farthest away from you by coming from behind it.


Move the needle towards the strand on the far side of the thumb and go under it coming from behind to catch it on the needle.


Pull the needle back towards the index finger pulling the yarn through the loop around the index finger. Slip loop off index finger and tighten the stitch.

So this is how I spent my Saturday. Following is the method I developed for dyeing my recycled yarn with food paste dye (Wilton's icing dye). What I like about this method is that the yarn is never added to water that is a different temperature, thus minimizing the chances of shocking/felting. Added bonus is not having to handle scalding hot yarn, this is a good thing if you are like my accident prone self.

First soak the yarn in lukewarm water (without vinegar) for 30 minutes. While the yarn is soaking prepare your dyepot.


Icing dye is very concentrated, so 1 bottle of food coloring will dye a lot of fiber. For 4 oz. of yarn I used a little under 1/2 tsp. Wearing gloves, mix your dye into a cup of hot water until it is completely dissolved. Next, fill your dyepot with tepid water and pour the dye mixture in.

*Tip - You can purchase latex gloves in bulk at hardware stores like Northern. Usually 100 gloves for around $6 instead of 3 pairs for the same price elsewhere.

Remove the yarn from the soaking water and gently squeeze out excess water. Now add the yarn into the cool dye.


Bring water up to near boiling (150-160°F) and simmer for 10 minutes. A steady steam should be rising off the top at this point.


You can see here how the water is getting much clearer

Now add a glug or about 1/4 cup of vinegar being careful to not pour it directly on the yarn. The vinegar aids in the uptake and colorfastness of the dye, because of this it is best to add it after the yarn has evenly soaked in the dye to help with a more uniform coloring.
Bring the temperature up to 180°F (170°F for silk) and simmer for 30 minutes or until color is exhausted.


Turn off heat and let cool in dyepot to room temperature.

Rinse thoroughly with same temperature water and hang to dry.


The first batch I dyed is hanging on the right. This was with Leaf Green and it produced a very vivid green. The second batch I wanted a more mossy/earthy tone so I sprinkled in about 1/3 of a packet of Cherry Kool-aid too. The result is hanging on the left, exactly the color I was going for actually. I guess all that color theory in college finally paid off, heh.

The finished skeins
Rollover the smaller images to view enlargement.

Make some bobbles! Check out the new tutorial over here. Same stitch used in the Cherry Pie pattern.

Also checked out from the library this book - The Principles of Knitting by June Hemmons Hiatt. A tome of a knitting book at 571 pages, but what a great reference. I've found so many new and useful things in this, albeit somewhat dry, book. So I go on over to amazon.com to look it up. Yeah, seems others have discovered it's usefulness too- the out of print copies are selling for $200-$300+. I think I'll stick with renting the library copy...