Tag Archives: Free

Free Pattern: Double Knit Sampler Coin Purse

The Bluebonnet Knitting Guild has been nice enough to ask me back to present my Double Knitting program and I’m always happy to spread the double knit love around. Last time I had worked up a little project and pattern as a type of sampler to learn some of the different techniques I discussed. I had originally hoped to do a longer workshop on it, but alas it did not come together. I did however have a nearly completed pattern already written and had wanted to dust if off and put together in a finished publishable format – this was the perfect motivation I needed!

Double Knit Sampler Coin Purse

If you would like a bit of a Double Knit Primer- refer to the first part of my DK Button Band tutorial.

While swatching is great, I wanted to have an actual useful item when finished trying these different methods, thus the coin purse. The body of the purse is worked back and forth on two needles with a single strand of yarn and produces a tube like circular knitting, but with a closed bottom. The pattern offers three different options for the closed tube cast-on.

The recommended option is working this part “inside-out” or in Reverse Stockinette Stitch. There are a couple reasons for this. First, this method doesn’t require you to move the working yarn from front to back as you work, simpler and less likely you’ll accidentally miss one and hook your sides together making the tube impossible to open. Second, you can work the pair of stitches as one (details in pattern) and this goes faster
(If you would prefer to work it so you can see the knit stitches as you go, this option is also given).

"Opening the tube"

Once done with this section, you’re ready to “open the tube”. Using two needles you place alternating stitches on each, so one side of fabric is on each needle.

Tube now open and reversed right side out

Viola! A knitted “in the round” tube worked back and forth on two needles. Here it has been flipped right side out and ready to continue on to the two color flap.


A slightly smaller prototype version, with another chart example. There are 9 different chart options in the pattern. Optional shaping is also covered.

Pattern previewPattern: Double Knit Sampler Coin Purse
Gauge: 16 sts and 24 rows = 4″ in Double Knit Sockinette st. (Exact gauge not important)
Size: 2 ½” wide and 2 ¾” tall
Needle sizes: US Size 6 (4mm) double-pointed needles
Yarn: Any worsted weight yarn or similar in two contrasting colors [Main Color (MC) and Contrast Color (CC)]
Skill level: Intermediate
Price: FREE
Format: PDF format digital pattern


DK Xmas Stocking

I took a break from sweater knitting. My double knit pattern for this mini Christmas stocking was a perfect little diversion.

Double Knit Stocking in DK weight

As you can see this is a larger version of my original worked in DK weight yarn. Followed the pattern exactly the same, but was wanting to show how you can really use any size yarn. Just keep in mind if you want to give this a try to use a needle a couple a sizes smaller than the usual recommended size.

To understand a little more why that is, if you’re the curious type, I gave a bit of a Double Knit primer in my Double Knit Button Band Tutorial here.

These really go very quickly and seem like a neat trick to do. They are knit back and forth on two needles and inside out. But when you’re done, you turn it right-side out and viola! it’s a circular tube stocking.

Modified Motif

Are you guys getting sick of the tatting yet? These little pieces just go so much faster than say, a sweater.

They do take a little more counting then most knitting. So they’re nice to work on when I’m not particularly riveted to something on TV (like Mr. PieKnits Halo game) or just relaxing.

This latest motif necklace is based on the Motif № 2 of this free pattern from free-tatting.com

I found the chart given is quite off. I figure things like that are to be somewhat expected with free patterns. The creator was generous enough to share something, I don’t expect them to hire a team of tech editors, etc. (Goes for knitting patterns too, don’t look a gift horse in the mouth and all, ahem).

Anyway, after marking up corrections on the printed chart and starting tatting I realized even with my smaller size #20 thread this was going to be too big for a pendant. So I edited the counts all down and then I messed up chain 8 with an extra repeat and decided to go with it as a “design feature”.

After all that I figured why not try my hand at chart making. I have a few ideas starting to float around for my own designs and figured it’d be good to practice. Thus my version below with a little more detailed info in the instructions.

  • 1 – Rings: (for 1st repeat, 5-3-1-3-5 RW) then 5+3-1-3-5 RW, for next 3 repeats
  • 2 – Chains: 3-3 RW
  • 3, 4, 5 – Rings: 4+3-1-1-3-4 (RW after Ring 5)
  • 6 – Chains: 3+3 RW
  • 7 – Rings: 5+3-1-3-5 RW (for final repeat, 5+3-1-3+5 RW)
  • 8 – Chain: 5-2-2-2-5 RW, next 2: 5+2-2-2-5 (for final repeat, 5+2-2-2+5)

>> Don’t forget to enter the contest!

Tatted Skull Cameo

More skulls, and a pattern.

Skul Cameo pin

I was playing around with the skull pattern I posted here and came up with this variation. It’s a toothier skull sans the jaw bone. After coming up with a combination that worked I had this little tatted guy and wanted to do something with him (and not add him to the craft room bin of swatches, mock ups, trails and proof of concept scraps). So I thought I’d attach him to something, and then the idea of adding a tatted border around it to create a kind of cameo occurred to me.

my heart, it is bursting with love for this

I decided upon this edging (Victorian Edging by Eileen Stafford) with some modifications. To make it a little smaller to fit the size I wanted, I decreased all ds counts and changed the center clover ring to have only three picots instead of five as well as changing the joins to add a curve to the piece.

Both pieces were stitched to the green felt oval with black thread and a pin back was attached to the backside. Perfect for Halloween!

Skull Cameo Pattern

Size 20 crochet cotton and #7 fine tatting needle

For Skull:
R: 6
Split R: 8/6 RW
Ch: 34 RW
R: 8 + (to space between R and SR) 6 RW
Ch: 7-1-1-1-1-1-6
Attach chain to other outer eye and fasten off.

For Edging:
R: 4-4-4-4
*Ch: 3- (very small picot(vsp)) 4-2-2-4-(vsp)3 RW
R: 4+ (join to third picot of previous ring) 4-4-4
    (alternate every other repeat with 4-4+4-4, this creates a curve)
R: 4+4-1-1-4-4
R: 4+4-4-4 RW
Ch: 3+ (join to picot of previous chain) 4-2-2-4-(vsp)3 RW
R: 4+ (join to second picot of previous ring) 4-4-4 RW *

Repeat between * * for desired length (mine was 7 repeats) joining to first repeat at the end. Press flat with steam iron. Cut out a piece of felt slightly larger than the inside edge off the tatted band. Whip stitch pieces into place with black thread. Ta-da!

Skulls, in Tatting

While browsing the interwebs for tatting patterns, what should I find but Tatted Skulls! TAT’S AMORÉ has a free pattern for a skull bracelet (anklet or choker) and a set of earrings.
I decided to try out the earrings. I’m stoked that it’s now October; these are perfect for Halloween (or anytime wear if you’re like me).

Tatted Skull Earrings

No trouble converting this to needle tatting but I did tweak the pattern a little. I don’t know if it’s my own tension, size thread/needle, etc but the eyes seemed really small to me and the skull a little too large. My first one looked a bit more alien then human. So the eyes were increased by 1 ds on each side (8/6) and the skull decreased by 2 on each half (17 + 17).

<3 little skulls

I did start to play around with the pattern and came up with an alternate version I’ll share soon.

Lace Zill Mufflers, or Zufflers!

For years, I had wanted to take belly dance lessons. I’d even posted about it before but for various reasons I hadn’t done it. Finally last March I found a perfect beginners class really close to me. I’ve been going since and I love it!

Just a few weeks back we had our first introduction to playing the finger cymbals, or zills, and I immediately thought, “weee! I need to get me some of these!”. Now my playing cymbals in drumline experience is actually coming in handy, who’d have thought?

Zufflers - Zill Mufflers! A free pattern

My shiny new Saroyan Nefertiti’s came in the mail along with an instructional video and I happily began driving my dog up the wall with them. So I realized I needed to make some zill mufflers stat, especially if I actually wanted to practice with anyone in earshot.

These knitted covers help damped the sound of the cymbal but it’s still audible enough to hear yourself while practicing. Elastic run through the final stitches make these easy to slip on and off. 

There are some nice looking crochet patterns out there but as I’m still woefully crochet-challenged I wanted to create my own. Using a doily pattern as a jumping off point this is what I came up with –


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Finished Sizes

Fits 2 – 2 1/2″ sized zill.

Lace weight yarn or Crochet Cotton Size 10 or similar weight. Needles: US Size 2 (2.75mm), Size C crochet hook (or similar size). Notions: Sewing needle, 1/4″ elastic or cord.


See Yarn Standards Abbreviations or Chart Key below.

(Make two, or four for a more subdued sound)
With crochet hook and using Emily Ocker’s Circular Cast-On (tutorial link) CO 8 stitches. Slip and divide sts evenly onto double point needles to join in the round. Work written directions below, or follow chart working 8 repeats. After a couple rounds pull cast-on tail to close the circle.

Round 1: K all sts.

Round 2: *K1, yo; repeat from * all around – 16 sts.

Round 3 and ALL UNEVEN ROUNDS: K all sts.

Round 4: *K2, yo; rep from * all around – 24 sts.

Round 6: *K3, yo; rep from * all around – 32 sts.

Round 8: *K3tog, yo, k1, yo; rep from * all around.

Round 10: *K1, yo, k3, yo; rep from * all around – 48 sts.

Round 12: *K1, yo, k2tog, k1, k2tog, yo; rep from * all around.

Round 14: *K1, k2tog, k3; rep from * all around – 40 sts remaining.

Round 16: *K3, k2tog; rep from * all around – 32 sts rem.

Round 17: *K2tog, yo; rep from * all around.

Round 18: *K1, k2tog, k1; rep from * all around – 24 sts rem.


Zill Muffler Chart

Zill Muffler Chart Key


Leaving all sts on the needles, cut yarn and pull through last stitch to fasten off. Thread elastic through all live stitches on the needle. Fit piece over zill and cut elastic to size. Sew ends of elastic together. Weave in all ends.
See more PieKnits patterns this way >>

Impromptu crappy lighting photo

Just for the heck of it I rummaged around my closet and put together a “costume”. Here’s where marrying into an Indian family is helpful, hehe! I have lots of scarves/veils, bindi’s, bangles, full skirts, etc. Just threw some on and snapped a few impromptu photos.

Fissure Cowl – Free Pattern

Yes, I cut my hair Again.

I can’t seem to get away from quick small projects. The instant FO’s, they are so hard to resist.

Seeing countless cute and cozy looking cowls (wee, alliteration) lately I’ve had a few ideas for my own floating around. This exceedingly simple one I knit up holding two strands of worsted together to get a bulky gauge. I think I’ll make a taller one in an actual bulky yarn as well for the single strand should show off the yarn overs even more.

This fitted cowl is nice for a little extra warmth without too much bulk under a coat.

Click me

Fissure Cowl

Finished Sizes
Women’s [Men’s]

Yarn: Moda Dea Cartwheel (100% Wool; 77yds per 50g); Color: #9412 Misty; 1 ball, held doubled OR a single strand of Bulky weight yarn. Needles: US Size 11 (8mm). Notions: Crochet hook (preferably close to 8mm), waste yarn.

13 sts and 9 rows = 4″ in Stockinette Stitch.

See Yarn Standards Abbreviations.

Crochet a chain with waste yarn approx. 20 sts for provisional cast-on. Using either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn held together or one strand of bulky weight, pick up 12 sts in the back of crochet chain for provisional cast-on. (Alternatively, a regular cast-on can be used and the ends seamed together during finishing.)

Note: You may pick up more than 12 sts for a taller/higher cowl.

Rows 1-4: Knit.
Row 5: Knit to last 5 sts, yo, k1, yo, k1, (yo)twice, k1, (yo)3x, k1, (yo)4x, k1 loosely.

Row 6: Knit across, dropping all yarn overs.

Repeat rows 1-6 nine[ten] more times.

“Unzip” provisional cast-on and place lives stitches on an extra needle. Join this end to last row via three-needle bind off.

Weave in all ends.

See more PieKnits patterns this way >>

Fissure Cowl

Free Pattern: Subtle Twist Hat

Mr. PieKnits hat is now available as a free pattern download!

Subtle Twist Cabled Hat

Well hello there cables!

I managed to get a little better shot showing the cabled decreases at the crown. It is tricky to photograph the top of your own head! I would like to get some photos of Mr. PieKnits modeling his hat but our daylight hours together in the winter are pretty much weekend limited.

Subtle Twist Beanie

This was designed as a gift for my husband who tends towards simple knits but still wants something interesting. While most of this hat is worked in a simple rib pattern, subtle cables spring forth twisting into the top decreases adding interest. The result, an engaging knit for both the wearer and knitter! As a very stretchy hat, it fits most adults.

The pattern contains both written and fully charted instructions.

Ths sample shown is knit in Schulana Cashmere Millefiori, other suggested alternative yarns are listed below. NOTE: This pattern was worked to use up ALL of the possible yarn without a swatch left over.

Pattern previewPattern: Subtle Twist Hat
Gauge: 14 sts and 23 rows = 4″ in Sockinette st.
Size: Adult/Unisex (20″-23″ circumference)
Needle sizes: US Size 10 (6mm): 16″ cir and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed needles (dpn)
Yarn: Schulana Cashmere Millefiori (100% Cashmere; 100yds/91m per 50g/1.76 oz.); Color: #5 Blue, Gray, Brown; 1 ball. Suggested Alternatives: Misti Alpaca Chunky, Lion Brand Wool-Ease Chunky.
Skill level: Intermediate Beginner (cables, working in the round)
Price: FREE
Format: PDF format digital pattern
Additional Photos: In this post

Where to keep that cable needle? A solution.

Now as I’ve said many a time, I do love my cables. However it wasn’t until knitting on a particularly cramped plane once that I suddenly became self aware enough to realize I was sticking my cable needle (and extra double point for that matter) in my mouth when not in use. Oh.
So what to do with it?
I know many rave about cabling without a cable needle and I do it for 1×1 cables sometimes but generally it’s just not for me. (I end up feeling I’m strangling rather than working the cables). I like working fast though and all other methods have fallen short (sticking behind the ear- long hair bad idea / in the knitting – it falls out, split stitches / setting it down- the invisible gnomes abscond with it, etc).
With Mother Necessity nudging me, I set my mind to inventing a solution. I wanted a method that didn’t require letting go of the knitting and liked a similar idea to the wrist pin cushion. After a few failed prototypes this is what I came up with and Eureka, it works perfectly!
Cable needle holder
This cable needle holder is worn like a ring on any finger that’s comfortable. The elastic loop performs double duty as a button loop closure and holds the cable needle securely under tension. The cable needle is slipped in and out as needed without having to let go of the working yarn or needles.
What You Need (or what I used anyway):

  • 2 1/2″ long piece of round cord elastic
  • 3″ x 7/8″ piece of fabric (approximately)
  • Matching sewing thread
  • One 1/2″ button (with a shank strongly preferred)

If you’d like, you can print out this template for the fabric. First fold and press your hems, your final size should be 2″ x 5/8″. This final size is what matters, not the hem allowance. (Also, does pressing my folds with my hair straightener instead of the huge industrial iron make me a total freak?)
Hems folded and ready to be sewn - wrong side
I used the fabric selvedge here as it was a little sturdier for attaching the elastic.
Hems folded and ready to be sewn - right side
View from the right side. Note: if you have thin fingers (smaller than size 6), or would like to wear this on your pinky I’d recommend making the piece shorter.
half unfolded and elastic loop sewn down to hem selvedge
Next fold the piece of elastic in half and secure it to the inside hem fabric making sure not to go through both layers. It’s pictured here half unfolded on the right side. I found lashing down both ends by wrapping the thread around everything a few times help to initially secure it. Then work up and over each end in a figure 8 fashion being sure to pierce through the elastic a few times until it’s nice and secure.
All hems sewn
If you have greater finesse with a sewing machine than I, topstitch around all the edges to secure hem. Otherwise hand sew with backstitch.
Button added - all done!
Finally, sew on your button. If not using the recommended shank type button be sure you make a good strong thread shank. (You will be putting a lot a repeated tension on this closure.)
Action shot
Now you’re ready to zoom through your next cabling project!
I’m really rather fond of mine and happily wear it simply as jewelry. Definitely more stylish if forgotten than a needle behind the ear (or in the other stow-away place I’ve heard of- the cleavage)!

Some knitting

A FO actually, and a kinda sorta pattern.
Scallop Choker Necklace
Scallop chocker necklace
This little one-nighter was inspired by Judy Gibson’s clever top down scalloped edging. I still have quite a bit of a ball of Classic Elite Provence left over from Scarlet that’s been inspiring me to invent ways to use up, so this piece came about. Essentially I added a garter eyelet row and worked some beads and charms in the bind off then wove some ribbon through the eyelets to make a choker.
Here’s the simple little pattern.
Gauge: 21 sts and 26 rows = 4″ in St st.
Needle size: US size 7/4.5 mm
Yarn: Classic Elite Provence (100% Mercerized Egyptian Cotton; 205yds/186m per 100g skein) Color: #2627 French Red
Other: 8 black 6/0 seed beads, 3 small charms of choice, 1/4 inch black ribbon
Pre-string beads- my order was 2 seed beads, 1 charm, 2 sb, 1 Charm, 2 sb, 1 Charm, 2 sb.
CO 54 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: K1, *k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * ending k2
Row 3: Knit
Start chart or written directions via Judy Gibson’s site. Note: I changed the double decrease in row 7 to a centered decrease in my version, which is reflected in the chart.

Bind off all stitches (I bound off in Purl), working the beads in at desired locations. On the two outer scallops I did just one black seed bead centered. For the center 3 scallops I did 1 black, 1 charm, then 1 black centered in each.
Weave in ends and block. You’ll notice on Judy’s site she blocked the piece straight, but I kept it in its natural curved state. Thread ribbon through eyelet row with enough extra length to tie in back.
That’s it! I also got to use my new favorite “blocking boards” – puzzle piece cork board tiles. They work great!
Cork board blockers
I picked up this set of 6 or so on clearance for $5 at Hobby Lobby. The piece’s all interlock together so you can make your blocking surface as small or large as you need it and it breaks apart for compact storage. Yeay!